Rufas Island, West Papua, Indonesia

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Island travelTrip planningMaldives29 min read

Male Airport to a Local Island

The ferry, the speedboat, and the day nothing sails.

An aerial view at dusk of the airport island at Male: a single runway on a strip of reclaimed land, a channel of moored boats between it and a dense island of low-rise blocks, and open sea in every direction.

There is a walkway, a handrail, a strip of hot concrete, and then the lagoon. Velana International sits on its own island. Whatever address is printed on your guesthouse booking, the last part of getting to it happens on water, and the water keeps a timetable that nobody emailed you.

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Trip planningBudget travelTulum24 min read

Renting a Car on the Riviera Maya

Liability you are buying whatever happens. Collision is the only line worth arguing about.

A dusty four wheel drive parked among coconut palms at the edge of a beach

The car is $1 a day. You saw it, you booked it, you have the confirmation on your phone with the number printed on it. You are now at a desk in Cancun at half past eleven at night, and the screen the agent has turned towards you says $486.

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Solo travelIsland travelMaldives32 min read

The Maldives Alone

No bar to walk into, and a boat that only goes if it fills.

A curving white beach on Thoddoo in the Maldives backed by palms, sunlight rippling across clear shallow water in the foreground

Nobody arrives at this idea by accident. The country shows up in your head already decorated: two glasses on a deck, a drone shot pulling back over a lagoon, somebody's ring finger in soft focus. So you sit with the tab open and think that going by yourself would be a slightly odd thing to do here. Like booking a table for two and then asking them to take the other chair away.

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Trip planningTulum24 min read

Landing at Tulum Airport

Price both airports. Within about eighty dollars, take Tulum and save the drive. Past that, Cancun and the coach.

white plane flying during golden hour

The belt starts, runs for about four minutes, and stops. Everybody's bag is already off it. There are maybe sixty of you in a hall built to move a thousand at once, and the noise your wheels make on the floor carries the whole way to the doors.

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Trip planningTulum24 min read

Where to Stay for Chichen Itza

Sleep within an hour of the gate. Everything else about the day follows from that one booking.

El Castillo at Chichen Itza seen corner-on across the grass plaza, a small group of visitors standing at the foot of the near stairway

By eleven the same plaza has a line for the photograph, a man selling jaguar whistles every dozen paces, and no shade left that somebody is not already standing in. Nothing about the ruins has changed. Only the hour.

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Trip planningEl Nido27 min read

Getting to El Nido

Every route in, and the one that moved in 2026.

An aerial view of El Nido town beach with outrigger boats moored across the bay and karst islands behind

Nobody ends up in El Nido by accident. It sits near the top of a long island, at the end of a road that gives up shortly afterward, and every person on that beach solved a routing problem to get there. Most of them solved it with advice that expired in March.

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